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Dutch marquise solitaire rings

A marquise is the pointed oval, the boat shape with a point at each end. The Dutch marquise is the antique version: cut in the manner of the old Dutch and Flemish cutters, with a small table, a high crown, an open culet and a handful of large facets, so it glows in broad flashes the way an old mine cut does rather than sparkling the way a modern marquise does. It is one of the most searched antique cuts of the last two years and almost nobody stocks it, because it is cut to order. We cut it to order.

Quoted on the stone · No list price · Last updated 2026-10-05

Dutch marquise against a modern marquise

A modern marquise is a 58-facet brilliant stretched to two points. It is bright, it shows a bow-tie across the middle, and it reads sharp. A Dutch marquise keeps the outline and changes the cutting: fewer, larger facets, a crown tall enough to hold light, a table small enough to send it back in sheets. The result is softer and older-looking, with far less bow-tie, because the crown facets do most of the work. Seen side by side the two are obviously different stones.

Like every pointed cut it has two points to protect. Each sits in a V-shaped claw that cups the tip, and we will not set one without them. The ratio runs from about 1.6 to 2.0 length to width; lower reads fuller, higher reads like a blade. Set north-south it lengthens the finger more than any other shape. Set east-west, across the finger, it is the quietly fashionable choice and sits lower on the hand.

The glow
Broad, slow flashes with dark between them, cut for candlelight. Warmer colours suit it, J to L in yellow gold especially.
The points
Two of them, each cupped in a V-claw. A bezel, which runs metal around the whole outline, is the other secure choice and suits the antique look.
Natural or lab-grown
Natural antique Dutch marquises are rare and sourced on commission. Modern-cut natural and lab-grown are cut to order in any size, IGI or GIA certified.

Carat, colour and clarity

A marquise reads larger per carat than any shape but the pear, because so much of it is length: a one carat Dutch marquise is around 10 by 5 millimetres and looks every bit of it on a hand. Two carats runs around 13 by 6.5. The tall crown takes a little back compared to a modern marquise, so compare millimetres on the certificate rather than carat.

Colour shows most at the points, where the stone is thinnest. G to I reads white in platinum; J to L in yellow gold gives the antique warmth most people want from this cut. Clarity is forgiving thanks to the broad facets: VS2 is clean and SI1 often is, and we tell you honestly for each stone.

How a ring is made here

The process is the same for every ring. We talk, by video or in person in Bengaluru. We source the stone for you and send its certificate. A designer draws the ring and you approve the renders before any metal is poured. The makers we work with cut and set it in 18k gold or 950 platinum. You see photographs of the finished ring before it ships, insured and tracked, with an insurance valuation in the box.

Every stone comes with its certificate: GIA for lab-grown diamonds, IGI for natural diamonds and GRA for moissanite. The report number is yours to look up on the lab's own site before the ring is made.

Questions people ask

What is a Dutch marquise?

An antique-style marquise: pointed at both ends like any marquise, but cut with a small table, a high crown, an open culet and large facets, so it glows in broad flashes rather than sparkling. It is to the marquise what the old mine cut is to the cushion.

Does a Dutch marquise have a bow-tie?

Far less than a modern marquise, because the tall crown facets return light across the middle instead of leaving it dark. A well-cut one has almost none. We send video so you can see.

Are the points fragile?

Not when each is cupped in a V-claw, which every one we set has. A bezel around the whole stone is the other secure option. An unprotected point is where chips happen, and we do not set them that way.

North-south or east-west?

North-south, along the finger, lengthens the hand most and is the traditional way. East-west, across the finger, reads modern and sits lower. The ring is drawn either way; tell us when we design it.

Can I have a Dutch marquise in lab-grown?

Yes. Lab-grown Dutch marquises are cut to order in any size and colour, GIA certified, and are the affordable way to a large one. Natural, antique or modern-cut, is sourced on commission and IGI certified.

Start with the Dutch marquise

Tell us the length you have in mind, natural or lab-grown, and the colour, and we will have stones cut or sourced and show them on video in daylight, each with its certificate and a quote. The renders show both V-claws before anything is made.

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